San Cristobal de las Casas to Palenque

What to expect when visiting Palenque

Palenque is a top destination in Mexico for archaeology and Mayan history lovers. There’s really not much to see in Palenque town, but its jungles are another story. Palenque’s real attraction lies in the archaeological ruins hidden within the rainforest, just 20 minutes outside of town.

The whole complex has an Indiana Jones feel to it. Its structures are impressive, but they are unfortunately not as well-preserved as Chichen Itza. Still, some people actually prefer the ruins in Palenque because you’re able to climb on them, literally taking the experience to whole new heights.

Road Safety from San Cristobal de las Casas to Palenque

San Cristobal de las Casas and Palenque are two of the most famous destinations in Mexico and have a good safety record.

However, there have been some issues regarding the roads in between these towns, particularly the one from San Cristobal to Ocosingo. This route is infamous for its roadblocks and has had several incidents of robbery.

Alternative route via Villahermosa

Thankfully, there is a good alternative route to get from San Cristobal de las Casas to Palenque, which is via Villahermosa. This town is part of a different state (Tabasco) and is much safer.

The route via Villahermosa takes 7 to 9.5 hours, a bit longer than the direct route via Ocosingo, which is just 5 to 6 hours. But we think the security of the Villahermosa route is well worth the extra time.

To be clear, the road via Villahermosa also has occasional roadblocks. But they happen only once in a while, unlike the daily roadblocks in Ocosingo. Also, more cars and public transport operate on this route so if ever there is a roadblock, you most probably won’t be alone.

Buses take a safer route than taxis

Bus operators know the dangers of passing through Ocosingo, so they only take the route via Villahermosa. However, taxis and some other private transfers often prefer the shorter route via Ocosingo.

To be fair, taxi’s normally travel in a convoy as a form of defence. They travel on a short line of minivan shuttles and other private transfers for safety. Still, the convoy isn’t always effective, so we would recommend asking the taxi driver to take the route via Villahermosa instead.

Renting a car?

Driving on your own from San Cristobal de las Casas to Palenque is possible, but we don’t recommend it.

Buses and taxis are safer as you will have a local driver who knows the area very well. They are trained to take the safest roads and know how to act in case they drive into a roadblock.

But if you’ve already decided on renting your own car, then make sure you take the Villahermosa route. Study the route beforehand too. Some roads can be very bumpy and it always pays to be prepared!

If you drive via Ocosingo and in just one car (not as a part of a convoy), you’re an easy target.

Why we don’t recommend travelling via Ocosingo

• Roadblocks. You will pass by some of the poorest towns in Mexico. The locals have created roadblocks to be like toll gates. For each roadblock, you will be asked to pay around 100 MXN (€4.70) to be able to pass. You will encounter several of them along the way. Prepare your 100-peso bills beforehand so you won’t have to get them from your wallet (or they might take your entire wallet too).
• Robbery. This isn’t common, but there have been instances of robbery and you can easily be the next victim. It has even happened to a convoy of 2 cars before. The cars were stopped and everything of value was taken away. We don’t think it’s worth taking the chance when there is a safer route via Villahermosa.
• Narco territory. The road between Ocosingo and San Cristobal is a well-known Narco territory, as well as the base of a few political and militant groups. Their enemy is the government, not the tourists. But that also means the government has very little control over this area.
• No order. Because of low government presence, if anything happens to you, you are most likely on your own. Authorities may not be able to help you to take back your lost things or post a complaint for an injury. There have been incidents where the government even covered up crimes to stop any further investigation.

While speed is important, it’s always better to be safe than sorry. For guaranteed safety, always pick the Villahermosa route.

2 ways to get from San Cristobal de las Casas to Palenque

There are 3 bus departures from San Cristobal de las Casas to Palenque every day – one at noon and two at night. These buses are operated by OCC, a sub-branch of Mexico’s most popular bus company (ADO). OCC offers first-class buses that include AC, reclining seats and a toilet.

Looking to save time as well as a night on accommodation? Then go for the night bus. If you are a good sleeper, you will be able to get a good night’s rest and wake up the next morning in your new destination.

The buses do make a few stops along the way where you’ll be able to stretch your legs and go to the toilet.

A bus ticket costs 420 MXN (€19.70) and the fastest bus can complete the journey in around 8 hours 45 minutes to 9 hours 20 minutes.

When taking a taxi or other forms of private transfers from San Cristobal de las Casas to Palenque, you can choose which way to take: via Villahermosa or via Ocosingo.

We won’t get tired of saying this: pick the Villahermosa route. It really is the more logical option especially if you’re travelling with kids.

The safer route via Villahermosa is more expensive

Because the way via Villahermosa is longer, it is also more expensive. Travel time is around 7 hours and rates start from around 5,000 MXN (€235) for a 3-seater car, about 1,340 MXN (€63) pricier compared to a taxi ride through Ocosingo.

This is why many taxi operators and travel agencies choose to take the 6-hour Ocosingo route. There are roadblocks, but the drivers are trained to react and deal with the locals.

They also know the safest roads, so most of the time you can really complete the trip by just paying a few hundred pesos extra. But don’t expect to get any peace of mind throughout the journey.

Recommended taxi companies

We recommend travelling with Taxi Seguro San Cristobal for an affordable and secure ride. Taxi rates from San Cristobal de las Casas to Palenque via Ocosingo start from 4,380 MXN (€205). That’s for a car that can seat 3 people.

Travelling with more people? You can also get a 9-seater shuttle from Wayak for 7,100 MXN (€335).

Note that you can always ask taxi operators to take you via Villahermosa for an additional cost (which we think is worth every penny). If time and budget are more important to you, make sure to be very prepared when taking the way through Ocosingo.

Safety tips when travelling via Ocosingo

• Pick a trusted taxi company. We don’t advise just hailing a taxi from the street. Pick one that receives good reviews or ask your hotel’s staff to help you find a trusted ride.
• Ask if they’re travelling in a convoy. Many tour operators choose to travel on a convoy when taking on the Ocosingo route. Make sure that your taxi driver plans to join one. If he doesn’t, find another taxi.
• Secure your valuables. Hide all gadgets and anything flashy (especially jewellery!).
• Separate a few 100-peso bills (€4.60) from the rest of your cash. This way, you can easily pay for roadblocks without showing all your money. A wallet full of cash can be very tempting for the hungry locals.
• Look brave, not fierce. One wrong look can piss off the locals. Try to look calm and confident, but be careful not to seem annoyed, aggressive, or even scared.
• Travel during the day. No taxi will want to travel at night anyway. That would be like asking for trouble.

Taxi options from San Cristobal de las Casas to Palenque